Sunday, June 9, 2013

Central Park In June


Everyone knows Central Park.  If they have never actually been there, they have seen television shows, photographs, movies or read stories and novels involving it.  It’s a world treasure, with a physical location and a real past.  Yet, even laden with myths from origins through its varied and strange vagaries of history, and the real fables which have occurred there, it is nevertheless astonishing to experience in real life.

Not so obvious is how much it changes with the seasons.  In autumn it can be incredibly sad, leaves falling and people starting to wear warm clothes and late sun mists casting nostalgia everywhere.  In winter it is a small and fragile space, with branches barely tracing webs over the looming buildings walling in on all sides.  In spring, everything is flowers and hope and attention is focused on details of the blooms and the first leaves and the signs of happiness to come.  And in summer, such as mid June when I was there, it is vast and crowded, with trees hiding the fact that it has boundaries, a grand stretch where it is easy to get lost, as crowded with human herds as the great plains in their bison-filled glory.

In June, the hidden and isolated nooks of the grand design are at their finest.  The ramble is truly a lonely wood, the row boats on the green pond evoke Europe from the Bethesda fountain, the carousel tunes ancient days.  Model sail boats skim the shallow pond where children climb on the Alice statue, rubbing the bronze bright.  There are statues and water, and arches, the zoo, and views, and always the incredible flora, including the magically preserved American Elms.

And, of course, always people.  Sun bathers on every inch of grass, ballplayers of one kind or another on every field (for the outdoor time is still new, and exciting, and not yet too hot), and babies, and performers of all types.  Photographers, vendors, the striding rich and hoping-soon-to-be rich.  Snatches of every language on the planet from the tourists.  You can become caught in a trance as you walk, which might be dangerous because there is a need to be aware of the joggers, and bicycles, and roller blades, and swarming children, and _not least_ many examples of oblivious humanity lost in pursuit of inner dreams.

The thing is _ there is hope.  Hope for people, hope for our civilization, hope that in spite of the evils we imagine, things may not crumble and the world may continue on well.  If countless folks can coexist so well, where such variety can be accommodated in peace and joy,  perhaps the future can become more like this everywhere.  It’s a fragile, and probably naïve fantasy, but easily accommodated by this glorious afternoon in June.
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I love the fact that the perfect trees and the manicured flowers are maintained by trained, paid, dedicated professionals.  I have nothing against home gardens _ I take care of my own turf and my wife turns our patio into a floral wonderland each spring, but I am a person of limited means and I appreciate the grand public displays.  I also think such works are greatly enhanced by the presence of other people, who make the setting special.

Parks are a lovely barometer of community health.  Sadly neglected, overgrown, dark and dangerous public places are a sad commentary on a culture in decline, unable to maintain its own past standards.  Crowded bricks and concrete without a horizon are a desperate attempt to provide a minimum standard of living to an impoverished city.  But a clean, well maintained, beautiful park _ moreover one that is open to all and respected by all _ is a vibrant sign of health and dreams of the future.

Parks of course have a wide variety, being now designated all the way from vast impenetrable stretches of wilderness to tiny stamp-size resting places with a bench overlooking almost anything.  No matter.  They are far more interesting and indicative of the civilization than any private hidden wealth.  I think they are one of the best inventions humanity has ever come up with.

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While strolling Central Park one day

Dodging bikes and runners all the way

I stopped to gawk and stare
At the people every where
Mostly happy, very busy, on display.
I heard some lilting foreign talk
(whistle)
And saw peculiar dress and walk
(whistle)
A dog and woman nicely dressed
Bumped me seeming quite distressed
I mumbled “sorry there” and moved
She tugged her little pet which barked
June was all in green
There was too much to be seen
In New York City visiting the Park.

http://www.centralpark.com/
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Unless you are a billionaire, commercial ocean fisherman, forest ranger, or farmer, you probably appreciate any parks to which you have access.  They give you access to the common heritage of humans, and in increasingly crowded conditions allow a space for dreaming, beauty, and meditation.  That is especially if you are one of the less fortunate people in the world, or simply in a less fortunate situation in your complicated life.

Parks cost public money and time, and it is always a delicate balance how much should be expended on them, by whom, and for whose benefit.  A part (like a golf course) for only the wealthy is of little general use to the community, although it may allow a kind of envious gaze into an imagined Shangri-La from the perimeter.  Vacant lots in the middle of blighted and crime-ridden slums, without capital nor effective protection, may be called parks but scarcely serve any such purpose.  Effective parks somehow combine the resources of the well off with the needs of those less so, and promote mixing of the various social classes.

By that standard, Central Park is remarkably successful.  And, in fact, it is sometimes hard to see how it could be a model for anything else, since its conditions are rather unique.  You should be grateful that it is available to you to experience one kind of a vision of society.
 
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“Park” can mean many different things, although related by involving relatively open space.  Wilderness areas are wild and generally inhospitable to casual use.  Natural parks are more amenable to tourists, with roads and trails and lookout areas, but still retain the natural form and beauty.  Historic parks are a mix, whose only common denominator is that something famous _ such as a battle or discovery or birth _ happened there.  Village parks are generally either neatly manicured town squares, or well-maintained common natural acreage.   But the great city parks _ such as those in Paris and New York _ are completely man-made, involving design by talented specialists, the labor of thousands, great cost to construct, and expensive ongoing resources.

Central Park, of course, is one of the latter.  Famously designed by Olmstead and Vaux, it was constructed from boulders and marsh sparsely populated by the poor.  They did it in the grand European manner, with areas to remind city dwellers of grand mansions, and lonely dells, and romantic interludes from novels.  It became a place to see and be seen, a success from its opening in the late 1800’s.   At this late date, with the trees grown fully and the mosses creeping back on the rocks, no one can believe that the brooks and ponds and waterfalls, and vistas are all planned and, in fact, use city water for their effects, and a vast army of park workers, paid and volunteer, to keep it in trim.  It seems completely natural, as all successful city parks due, such as the new ones here along the Hudson and East River _ simple preserves with a couple of amenities thrown in.

And, because Central Park is wholly artificial, it is also easy for it to slip into ruin.  This happened in the mid twentieth century, when the city was going bankrupt and the well-off were fleeing to suburban areas.  At that time the park was largely a place to avoid, and for those brave enough to risk the rampant crime, what could be seen was sad and forlorn and shabby _ not romantic at all.  Fortunately, today New York (and many large cities) are just roaring along, regaining their usual magnetism as beacons of civilization for the most able, ambitious, and wealthy.  And Central park came back with it and is now one of the premiere places on the planet to visit and enjoy.  There are probably some deeper morals and meanings here, but sometimes it is enough to just be happy and appreciate all the moment has to offer.

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The Falcon and the Coyote

Coyote had just arrived in the Big Apple, where he had heard the game was abundant and the living was easy.  It had been a hard and frightening trip, down noisy hard trails which went over rivers and had some nasty rocks rushing about.  But this _ he looked out of the bushes at a great glen in Central Park _ ah, this was indeed the land of milk and honey.  The rats and squirrels and geese he had encountered so far with fearless _ and easy pickings for dining anytime.

“You won’t make it here,” squawked a harsh voice overhead.

Coyote looked up at the bird perched jauntily overhead.  “What do you know, crow?” he retorted.

“A falcon, if you please.  You can call me PM.  That’s what the humans do, anyway. “

“You don’t need all this game for yourself _ there’s plenty for both of us.”

“Oh, that’s not the problem, “ replied PM.  “It’s those people.  They’re everywhere.  And they’re weird, unpredictable, and dangerous _ at least to you.”

“But not to a fine fellow like yourself, I suppose,” said Coyote sarcastically.

“Nope.  They seem to be quite thrilled that I’m around.  I’m wildlife…”

“Well, so am I.”

“Ah, but, “ continued PM, “I’m ACCEPTABLE wildlife.  They think I’m cute.”

“I’m cute enough.”

“And, “ continued PM relentlessly, “they don’t think I’m going to eat their little pets and carry off little children.”

“I had a cousin who did that,” noted Coyote, “back in Jersey.  I learned my lesson, thank you, and I never would bother them.”

“You may know that, and I may know that, “ PM lifted his plumage in a shrug, “ but I somehow don’t think they will know that.  But look, you don’t have to take my word for it.  I’ll show you.”

“OK, I guess.  What do you suggest?”

“We can find a good hiding place, near a bunch of people, with an even safer hiding place we can escape to, because you’re going to need that.  Then I will show myself to the public, and watch their reaction.  Then you can do the same.  You’ll be convinced, believe me.”

“Well, all right,” agreed Coyote reluctantly.

They found a nice thick thicket near a crowded bridge, filled with strollers and rollers and baby carriages.  PM flapped his wings noisily, circled low overhead, and settled in plain sight on an exposed dead branch.  The commotion among the onlookers was tremendous.  People grabbed pictures and cellphones and babies and pointed them at the falcon, laughing and amazed.  From across the fields others were running closer to see.  Everyone was staring and congratulating each other on what they had seen.  This went on for some time, and then PM flew off, took a couple of great upward circles, and quietly and unobtrusively made his way back to the thicket. 

“Now you try it,” he suggested.

So Coyote proudly strutted out of the thicket and perched boldly on a ledge in full view of everyone.  Oh, there was excitement alright, but a lot different than what had greeted the falcon.  People grabbed children and ran away, big dogs were growling and straining at the leash to get at him,  everyone was edging back, phones were being used frantically and sirens began to sound in the distance.  It seemed a wise time to back off, so Coyote dashed frantically through the twisty escape route to the predetermined save point, panting and exhausted.

“Told you,” rasped a voice overhead.

Coyote took the point, and that evening headed back upstate, where the living was harder, but less vicious.  City parks are for people, he thought to himself, and for the right kind of animals.  There may be a moral in there somewhere for everyone,  a metaphor for who can thrive in New York, but I’m certainly not going to point it out.
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Parks, particularly city parks, can be a good indicator of the wealth and health of a civilization.  They are an immense initial and ongoing expenditure, with only casual connection between cost and benefit.  The best ones are just ostentations displays of the surplus and wealth of the society.  People in parks are often of all classes, mixing indeterminately, enjoying life in their own ways, a lovely expression of at least a little beauty appreciation and freedom. 

Central Park is one of the greatest, a fine example of all that could be, and an equal example of no matter what things may seem, they contain surprising historic and contemporary depth.  Also, a manifest object lesson in just how fragile even our finest achievements are
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